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Pico Cão Grande: The Needle-Shaped Volcanic Cone That’s Almost Impossible to Climb

by Stephen King Leave a Comment

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São Tomé Island, a jewel in the crown of the Gulf of Guinea, isn’t just a haven for sun-seekers. Beneath its lush cloak of rainforests and cascading waterfalls lies a sleeping dragon – Pico Cão Grande, Portuguese for “Great Dog Peak.” This isn’t your ordinary mountain; it’s a needle-shaped volcanic behemoth, a tower of solidified magma that thrusts nearly 400 meters skyward, a stark contrast to the emerald embrace of the island. Often shrouded in mist and flirting with the clouds, Pico Cão Grande beckons only the most audacious climbers, offering one of Africa’s most formidable natural challenges.

A giant, moss-covered finger pointing towards the sky. Photo: Helena Van Eykeren

The near-vertical walls, carved by the relentless forces of nature, are a symphony of slick, moss-covered rock. Forget about easy handholds here; every grip becomes a precarious dance between fingers and a potentially treacherous foothold. The relentless equatorial heat adds another layer of difficulty, sapping climbers’ strength with its suffocating embrace. The ever-present humidity hangs heavy in the air, making every breath a battle, and sudden rain showers can transform the rock face into a treacherous cascade, like scaling a colossal sheet of wet glass.

The perils don’t stop at the unforgiving climb itself. The path to the base of the peak is an obstacle course of its own. Dense ferns and vines create a tangled labyrinth, while the island’s wildlife adds an unexpected twist. Imagine inching your way through the undergrowth, heart pounding with the rhythm of the climb, only to come face-to-face with a black mamba or another serpent slithering through the foliage. It’s a constant reminder that this is a wild place, and respect is demanded.

Japanese climbers Naotoshi Agata and Kenichi Moriyama (on the right) on their way to conquer the summit in 1991. Photo: Moriyama Kenichi

In 2016, two intrepid climbers, Gareth Leah and Sergio Almada, etched their names in Pico Cão Grande’s legend. They spent four grueling weeks on the peak, carving out a new route they christened Nubivagant – “ascent into the clouds.” The route itself (graded F8b) is a testament to their skill and determination. They battled not just the unforgiving rock but also equipment malfunctions and even snake bites, pushing themselves to the very limit.

Two years later, the Pou brothers from Spain upped the ante with their ascent of Leve Leve, an even more challenging route. Theirs marked the first all-free ascent of Nubivagant, a feat that solidified Pico Cão Grande’s reputation as a climber’s Everest.

Pico Cão Grande is usually covered in a mystical mist. Photo: Rui Almeida

This is no mountain for the casual thrill-seeker. Pico Cão Grande is a challenge reserved for seasoned mountaineers, those who possess an unwavering spirit and a deep respect for the raw power of nature. It demands meticulous planning, top-notch equipment, and a heart brimming with courage. But for those who conquer this dragon’s tooth, the reward is unparalleled. The summit offers not just panoramic vistas but a profound sense of accomplishment, a feeling of having danced with a legend and emerged victorious.

Iker Pou on the July 2018 first ascent of “Leve Leve”, Pico Cão Grande. Photo: Jordicanyi

But São Tomé Island is more than just this awe-inspiring behemoth. Beyond the realm of extreme climbs lie pristine beaches, perfect for unwinding after a brush with Pico Cão Grande’s might. Lush rainforests beckon explorers with their hidden waterfalls and a symphony of exotic birdsong. The island boasts a rich cultural tapestry, a vibrant blend of African and colonial influences evident in its architecture, music, and dance. Biodiversity flourishes here, with flora and fauna found nowhere else on Earth.

Cão Grande and Cão Pequeno, São Tomé Island. Photo: Ji-Elle

So, whether you’re a seasoned climber seeking a legendary challenge or a nature enthusiast yearning for a diverse adventure, São Tomé Island promises an unforgettable experience. It’s a place where adrenaline-pumping climbs coexist with serene beaches, where ancient cultures whisper stories in the wind, and where nature unveils its breathtaking secrets at every turn.

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